The Role of Essential Oils on Improving Elderly Skin Hydration
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Oct 13, 2022
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Abstract
Skin hydration has an important role in various diseases of the elderly. Skin hydration is determined by two factors, namely the ability of the stratum corneum (SC) to retain water due to natural moisturizing factors and the barrier function of the intercellular lipid lamellar structure and tight junctions. Several parameters are usually used for skin hydration, such as surface water content (SWC) and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). With age, several changes in the skin affect hydration, including changes in the cellular and intercellular lipid matrix, skin pH, SC protease enzymes, decreased sebaceous and sweat gland activity, and decreased estrogen levels in women. Therefore, a moisturizer is needed to minimize the unwanted effects of some of these changes. Selection of the type of moisturizer is very important for the elderly, especially moisturizers with antiseptic, antibacterial, and antioxidant effects are highly recommended. The ability of essential oils as components of moisturizers has been proven in various studies. Essential oils can improve the function of the epidermal barrier and help prevent transepidermal water loss. Therefore, this literature review discusses the role of various essential oils, namely green tea oils (Camellia sinensis or Camellia assamica), virgin coconut oils (Cocos nucifera L.), evening primrose oils (Oenothera paradoxa), grape seed oils (Vitis vinifera L.) .), rosemary oils (Rosmarinus officinalis L.), immortelle oils (Helichrysum italicum), and cannabis seeds oils (Cannabis sativa L.) on improving skin hydration in the elderly.
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How to Cite
Wijayadi, L. J. and Kelvin, K. (2022) “The Role of Essential Oils on Improving Elderly Skin Hydration”, Science Midwifery, 10(4), pp. 3104-3111. doi: 10.35335/midwifery.v10i4.769.
References
Andrade, S. F. de, Rijo, P., Rocha, C., Zhu, L., & Rodrigues, L. M. (2021). Characterizing the Mechanism of Action of Essential Oils on Skin Homeostasis—Data from Sonographic Imaging, EpidermalWater Dynamics, and Skin Biomechanics. Cosmetics, 8(36). https://doi.org/10.3390/%0Acosmetics8020036
Augustin, M., Kirsten, N., Körber, A., Wilsmann-Theis, D., Itschert, G., Staubach-Renz, P., Maul, J.-T., & Zander, N. (2019). Prevalence, Predictors and Comorbidity of Dry Skin in the General Population. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.15157
Bae, J., Kim, N., Shin, Y., Kim, S.-Y., & Kim, Y.-J. (2020). Activity of catechins and their applications. Biomedical Dermatology, 4(1), 1–10. https://doi.org/10.1186/s41702-020-0057-8
Blaak, J., Dähnhardt, D., Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer, S., Bielfeldt, S., Wilhelm, K. P., Wohlfart, R., & Staib, P. (2017). A plant oil-containing pH 4 emulsion improves epidermal barrier structure and enhances ceramide levels in aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(3), 284–291. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12374
Duba, K. S., & Fiori, L. (2015). Supercritical CO2 extraction of grape seed oil: Effect of process parameters on the extraction kinetics. The Journal of Supercritical Fluids, 98, 33–43. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.supflu.2014.12.021
Escuadro-Chin, M. O., Maanõ, M. M. C., & Dofitas, B. L. (2019). Randomized assessor-blinded controlled trial on the efficacy and safety of virgin coconut oil versus mineral oil as a therapeutic moisturizer for senile xerosis. Acta Medica Philippina, 53(4), 335–343. https://doi.org/10.47895/amp.v53i4.31
González-Minero, F. J., Bravo-Díaz, L., & Ayala-Gómez, A. (2020). Rosmarinus officinalis L. (Rosemary): An Ancient Plant with Uses in Personal Healthcare and Cosmetics. Cosmetics, 7(4), 77. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040077
Granger, C., Brown, A., Aladren, S., & Narda, M. (2020). Night Cream Containing Melatonin , Carnosine and Helichrysum italicum Extract Helps Reduce Skin Reactivity and Signs of Photodamage : Ex Vivo and Clinical Studies. Dermatology and Therapy, 10(6), 1315–1329. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-020-00443-2
Hahnel, E., Lichterfeld, A., Blume-peytavi, U., & Kottner, J. (2016). The epidemiology of skin conditions in the aged : A systematic review. Journal of Tissue Viability. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtv.2016.04.001
Kaniuk, Ł., Podborska, A., & Stachewicz, U. (2022). Enhanced mechanical performance and wettability of PHBV fiber blends with evening primrose oil for skin patches improving hydration and comfort. Journal of Materials Chemistry B, 10(11), 1763–1774. https://doi.org/10.1039/d1tb02805g
Karagounis, T. K., Gittler, J. K., Rotemberg, V., & Morel, K. D. (2019). Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil. Pediatric Dermatology, 36(1), 9–15. https://doi.org/10.1111/pde.13621
Kazmierska, A., Bolesławska, I., Polanska, A., Pazdrowska, A. D., Jagielski, P., Drzymała-Czyz, S., Adamski, Z., & Przysławski, J. (2022). Effect of Evening Primrose Oil Supplementation on Selected Parameters of Skin Condition in a Group of Patients Treated with Isotretinoin—A Randomized Double-Blind Trial. 11–16.
Kim, E., Hwang, K., Lee, J., Han, S. Y., Kim, E. M., Park, J., & Cho, J. Y. (2018). Skin protective effect of epigallocatechin gallate. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 1–14. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19010173
Kono, T., Miyachi, Y., & Kawashima, M. (2021). Clinical significance of the water retention and barrier function-improving capabilities of ceramide-containing formulations: A qualitative review. Journal of Dermatology, 48(12), 1807–1816. https://doi.org/10.1111/1346-8138.16175
Kowalska, M., Wozniak, M., & Pazdzior, M. (2017). Assessment of the sensory and moisturizing properties of emulsions with hemp oil. Acta Polytechnica Hungarica, 14(8), 183–195. https://doi.org/10.12700/APH.14.8.2017.8.10
Lee, S. G., Kim, R., Cho, I., Kang, H., Yeom, W., Lee, S. H., Lee, S., & Choi, Y. W. (2014). Hydrogel-Based Ultra-moisturizing Cream Formulation for Skin Hydration and Enhanced Dermal Drug Delivery. 37(10), 1674–1682.
Lemaire, G., Olivero, M., Rouquet, V., Moga, A., Pagnon, A., & Synelvia, L. S. (2022). Neryl acetate , the major component of Corsican Helichrysum Italicum essential oil , mediates its biological activities on skin barrier Short Title : Neryl acetate increases skin barrier function 1 Laboratoires 2 QIMA M & L SA – Groupe L ’ Occitane , ZI S.
Liao, R., Parker, T., Bellerose, K., Vollmer, D., & Han, X. (2022). A Green Tea Containing Skincare System Improves Skin Health and Beauty in Adults : An Exploratory Controlled Clinical Study.
Lodén, M. (2012). Effect of moisturizers on epidermal barrier function. Clinics in Dermatology, 30(3), 286–296. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2011.08.015
Malvezzi De Macedo, L., Mendes, É., Militao, L., Lacalendola Tundisi, L., Artem Ataide, J., Barbosa Souto, E., & Gava Mazzola, P. (2020). Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis L ., syn Salvia rosmarinus Spenn.) A Review. Plants, 9(651), 1–12.
Masaki, H., Yamashita, Y., Kyotani, D., Honda, T., Takano, K., Tamura, T., Mizutani, T., & Okano, Y. (2018). Correlations between skin hydration parameters and corneocyte-derived parameters to characterize skin conditions. January, 1–7. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12502
Mekic, S., Jacobs, L. C., Gunn, D. A., Mayes, A. E., Ikram, M. A., Pardo, L. M., & Nijsten, T. (2019). Prevalence and determinants for xerosis cutis in the middle-aged and elderly population: A cross-sectional study. 1–9. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2018.12.038
Metwally, S., Ura, D. P., Krysiak, Z. J., Kaniuk, Ł., Szewczyk, P. K., & Stachewicz, U. (2021). Electrospun PCL patches with controlled fiber morphology and mechanical performance for skin moisturization via long-term release of hemp oil for atopic dermatitis. Membranes, 11(1), 1–13. https://doi.org/10.3390/membranes11010026
Moncrieff, G., Cork, M., Lawton, S., Kokiet, S., Daly, C., & Clark, C. (2013). Use of emollients in dry-skin conditions: Consensus statement. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 38(3), 231–238. https://doi.org/10.1111/ced.12104
Montenegro, L., Pasquinucci, L., Zappalà, A., Chiechio, S., Turnaturi, R., & Parenti, C. (2017). Rosemary essential oil-loaded lipid nanoparticles: In vivo topical activity from gel vehicles. Pharmaceutics, 9(4), 1–12. https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics9040048
Noor, N. M., Aziz, A. A., Sarmidi, M. R., & Aziz, R. (2013). The effect of virgin coconut oil loaded solid lipid particles (VCO-SLPs) on skin hydration and skin elasticity. Jurnal Teknologi (Sciences and Engineering), 62(1), 39–43. https://doi.org/10.11113/jt.v62.1248
Park, K. Y., Ko, E. J., Kim, I. S., Li, K., Kim, B. J., Seo, S. J., Kim, M. N., & Hong, C. K. (2014). The effect of evening primrose oil for the prevention of xerotic cheilitis in acne patients being treated with isotretinoin: A pilot study. Annals of Dermatology, 26(6), 706–712. https://doi.org/10.5021/ad.2014.26.6.706
Rawlings, A. V., & Voegeli, R. (2013). Stratum corneum proteases and dry skin conditions. Cell and Tissue Research, 351(2), 217–235. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00441-012-1501-x
Şeker, M., & Esen, Ö. (2021). the Effect of Hemp Seed Oil on Skin and Soap Performance. International Journal of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, 4(3), 420–438. https://doi.org/10.38001/ijlsb.931795
Sotiropoulou, E. I., Varelas, V., Liouni, M., & Nerantzis, E. T. (2016). GRAPE SEED OIL : FROM A WINERY WASTE TO A VALUE ADDED COSMETIC PRODUCT-A REVIEW.
Stull, R. V. C., & Yosipovitch, G. (2015). Chronic Pruritus in the Elderly : Pathophysiology , Diagnosis and Management. 201–215. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40266-015-0246-0
Surini, S., Nursatyani, K., & Ramadon, D. (2018). Gel Formulation Containing Microcapsules of Grape Seed Oil ( Vitis vinifera L .) for Skin Moisturizer. 10(1), 41–47. https://doi.org/10.5530/jyp.2018.10.11
Tadić, V. M., Žugić, A., Martinović, M., Stanković, M., Maksimović, S., Frank, A., & Nešić, I. (2021). Enhanced skin performance of emulgel vs. Cream as systems for topical delivery of herbal actives (immortelle extract and hemp oil). Pharmaceutics, 13(11). https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics13111919
Tjandra, O., Wijayadi, L. J., & Rumawas, M. E. (2018). Green tea moisturizer improves skin hydration in elderly. Universa Medicina, 37(1), 3–12. https://doi.org/10.18051/univmed.2018.v37.3-12
Varma, S. R., Sivaprakasam, T. O., Arumugam, I., Dilip, N., Raghuraman, M., Pavan, K. B., Rafiq, M., & Paramesh, R. (2019). In vitro anti-inflammatory and skin protective properties of Virgin coconut oil. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 9(1), 5–14. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtcme.2017.06.012
Viciolle, E., Castilho, P., & Rosado, C. (2012). In vitro and in vivo assessment of the effect of Laurus novocanariensis oil and essential oil in human skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(6), 546–550. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00745.x
Wijayadi, L. J., & Kelvin. (2022). Effectiveness of Helichrysum italicum Essential Oil on Wound Healing. 10(2), 681–697.
Yahya, Y. F., Vani, O., Putra, D. E. W., Sovianti, C. S., Trislinawati, D., Marina, T., & Riviati, N. (2020). The Efficacy and Safety of Plant Oil Mixtures in the Treatment of Xerosis with Pruritus in Elderly People: Randomized double blind Controlled Trial. Bioscientia Medicina : Journal of Biomedicine and Translational Research, 5(3), 255–262. https://doi.org/10.32539/bsm.v5i3.206
Augustin, M., Kirsten, N., Körber, A., Wilsmann-Theis, D., Itschert, G., Staubach-Renz, P., Maul, J.-T., & Zander, N. (2019). Prevalence, Predictors and Comorbidity of Dry Skin in the General Population. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.15157
Bae, J., Kim, N., Shin, Y., Kim, S.-Y., & Kim, Y.-J. (2020). Activity of catechins and their applications. Biomedical Dermatology, 4(1), 1–10. https://doi.org/10.1186/s41702-020-0057-8
Blaak, J., Dähnhardt, D., Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer, S., Bielfeldt, S., Wilhelm, K. P., Wohlfart, R., & Staib, P. (2017). A plant oil-containing pH 4 emulsion improves epidermal barrier structure and enhances ceramide levels in aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(3), 284–291. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12374
Duba, K. S., & Fiori, L. (2015). Supercritical CO2 extraction of grape seed oil: Effect of process parameters on the extraction kinetics. The Journal of Supercritical Fluids, 98, 33–43. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.supflu.2014.12.021
Escuadro-Chin, M. O., Maanõ, M. M. C., & Dofitas, B. L. (2019). Randomized assessor-blinded controlled trial on the efficacy and safety of virgin coconut oil versus mineral oil as a therapeutic moisturizer for senile xerosis. Acta Medica Philippina, 53(4), 335–343. https://doi.org/10.47895/amp.v53i4.31
González-Minero, F. J., Bravo-Díaz, L., & Ayala-Gómez, A. (2020). Rosmarinus officinalis L. (Rosemary): An Ancient Plant with Uses in Personal Healthcare and Cosmetics. Cosmetics, 7(4), 77. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040077
Granger, C., Brown, A., Aladren, S., & Narda, M. (2020). Night Cream Containing Melatonin , Carnosine and Helichrysum italicum Extract Helps Reduce Skin Reactivity and Signs of Photodamage : Ex Vivo and Clinical Studies. Dermatology and Therapy, 10(6), 1315–1329. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-020-00443-2
Hahnel, E., Lichterfeld, A., Blume-peytavi, U., & Kottner, J. (2016). The epidemiology of skin conditions in the aged : A systematic review. Journal of Tissue Viability. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtv.2016.04.001
Kaniuk, Ł., Podborska, A., & Stachewicz, U. (2022). Enhanced mechanical performance and wettability of PHBV fiber blends with evening primrose oil for skin patches improving hydration and comfort. Journal of Materials Chemistry B, 10(11), 1763–1774. https://doi.org/10.1039/d1tb02805g
Karagounis, T. K., Gittler, J. K., Rotemberg, V., & Morel, K. D. (2019). Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil. Pediatric Dermatology, 36(1), 9–15. https://doi.org/10.1111/pde.13621
Kazmierska, A., Bolesławska, I., Polanska, A., Pazdrowska, A. D., Jagielski, P., Drzymała-Czyz, S., Adamski, Z., & Przysławski, J. (2022). Effect of Evening Primrose Oil Supplementation on Selected Parameters of Skin Condition in a Group of Patients Treated with Isotretinoin—A Randomized Double-Blind Trial. 11–16.
Kim, E., Hwang, K., Lee, J., Han, S. Y., Kim, E. M., Park, J., & Cho, J. Y. (2018). Skin protective effect of epigallocatechin gallate. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 1–14. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19010173
Kono, T., Miyachi, Y., & Kawashima, M. (2021). Clinical significance of the water retention and barrier function-improving capabilities of ceramide-containing formulations: A qualitative review. Journal of Dermatology, 48(12), 1807–1816. https://doi.org/10.1111/1346-8138.16175
Kowalska, M., Wozniak, M., & Pazdzior, M. (2017). Assessment of the sensory and moisturizing properties of emulsions with hemp oil. Acta Polytechnica Hungarica, 14(8), 183–195. https://doi.org/10.12700/APH.14.8.2017.8.10
Lee, S. G., Kim, R., Cho, I., Kang, H., Yeom, W., Lee, S. H., Lee, S., & Choi, Y. W. (2014). Hydrogel-Based Ultra-moisturizing Cream Formulation for Skin Hydration and Enhanced Dermal Drug Delivery. 37(10), 1674–1682.
Lemaire, G., Olivero, M., Rouquet, V., Moga, A., Pagnon, A., & Synelvia, L. S. (2022). Neryl acetate , the major component of Corsican Helichrysum Italicum essential oil , mediates its biological activities on skin barrier Short Title : Neryl acetate increases skin barrier function 1 Laboratoires 2 QIMA M & L SA – Groupe L ’ Occitane , ZI S.
Liao, R., Parker, T., Bellerose, K., Vollmer, D., & Han, X. (2022). A Green Tea Containing Skincare System Improves Skin Health and Beauty in Adults : An Exploratory Controlled Clinical Study.
Lodén, M. (2012). Effect of moisturizers on epidermal barrier function. Clinics in Dermatology, 30(3), 286–296. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2011.08.015
Malvezzi De Macedo, L., Mendes, É., Militao, L., Lacalendola Tundisi, L., Artem Ataide, J., Barbosa Souto, E., & Gava Mazzola, P. (2020). Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis L ., syn Salvia rosmarinus Spenn.) A Review. Plants, 9(651), 1–12.
Masaki, H., Yamashita, Y., Kyotani, D., Honda, T., Takano, K., Tamura, T., Mizutani, T., & Okano, Y. (2018). Correlations between skin hydration parameters and corneocyte-derived parameters to characterize skin conditions. January, 1–7. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12502
Mekic, S., Jacobs, L. C., Gunn, D. A., Mayes, A. E., Ikram, M. A., Pardo, L. M., & Nijsten, T. (2019). Prevalence and determinants for xerosis cutis in the middle-aged and elderly population: A cross-sectional study. 1–9. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2018.12.038
Metwally, S., Ura, D. P., Krysiak, Z. J., Kaniuk, Ł., Szewczyk, P. K., & Stachewicz, U. (2021). Electrospun PCL patches with controlled fiber morphology and mechanical performance for skin moisturization via long-term release of hemp oil for atopic dermatitis. Membranes, 11(1), 1–13. https://doi.org/10.3390/membranes11010026
Moncrieff, G., Cork, M., Lawton, S., Kokiet, S., Daly, C., & Clark, C. (2013). Use of emollients in dry-skin conditions: Consensus statement. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 38(3), 231–238. https://doi.org/10.1111/ced.12104
Montenegro, L., Pasquinucci, L., Zappalà, A., Chiechio, S., Turnaturi, R., & Parenti, C. (2017). Rosemary essential oil-loaded lipid nanoparticles: In vivo topical activity from gel vehicles. Pharmaceutics, 9(4), 1–12. https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics9040048
Noor, N. M., Aziz, A. A., Sarmidi, M. R., & Aziz, R. (2013). The effect of virgin coconut oil loaded solid lipid particles (VCO-SLPs) on skin hydration and skin elasticity. Jurnal Teknologi (Sciences and Engineering), 62(1), 39–43. https://doi.org/10.11113/jt.v62.1248
Park, K. Y., Ko, E. J., Kim, I. S., Li, K., Kim, B. J., Seo, S. J., Kim, M. N., & Hong, C. K. (2014). The effect of evening primrose oil for the prevention of xerotic cheilitis in acne patients being treated with isotretinoin: A pilot study. Annals of Dermatology, 26(6), 706–712. https://doi.org/10.5021/ad.2014.26.6.706
Rawlings, A. V., & Voegeli, R. (2013). Stratum corneum proteases and dry skin conditions. Cell and Tissue Research, 351(2), 217–235. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00441-012-1501-x
Şeker, M., & Esen, Ö. (2021). the Effect of Hemp Seed Oil on Skin and Soap Performance. International Journal of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, 4(3), 420–438. https://doi.org/10.38001/ijlsb.931795
Sotiropoulou, E. I., Varelas, V., Liouni, M., & Nerantzis, E. T. (2016). GRAPE SEED OIL : FROM A WINERY WASTE TO A VALUE ADDED COSMETIC PRODUCT-A REVIEW.
Stull, R. V. C., & Yosipovitch, G. (2015). Chronic Pruritus in the Elderly : Pathophysiology , Diagnosis and Management. 201–215. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40266-015-0246-0
Surini, S., Nursatyani, K., & Ramadon, D. (2018). Gel Formulation Containing Microcapsules of Grape Seed Oil ( Vitis vinifera L .) for Skin Moisturizer. 10(1), 41–47. https://doi.org/10.5530/jyp.2018.10.11
Tadić, V. M., Žugić, A., Martinović, M., Stanković, M., Maksimović, S., Frank, A., & Nešić, I. (2021). Enhanced skin performance of emulgel vs. Cream as systems for topical delivery of herbal actives (immortelle extract and hemp oil). Pharmaceutics, 13(11). https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics13111919
Tjandra, O., Wijayadi, L. J., & Rumawas, M. E. (2018). Green tea moisturizer improves skin hydration in elderly. Universa Medicina, 37(1), 3–12. https://doi.org/10.18051/univmed.2018.v37.3-12
Varma, S. R., Sivaprakasam, T. O., Arumugam, I., Dilip, N., Raghuraman, M., Pavan, K. B., Rafiq, M., & Paramesh, R. (2019). In vitro anti-inflammatory and skin protective properties of Virgin coconut oil. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 9(1), 5–14. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtcme.2017.06.012
Viciolle, E., Castilho, P., & Rosado, C. (2012). In vitro and in vivo assessment of the effect of Laurus novocanariensis oil and essential oil in human skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(6), 546–550. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00745.x
Wijayadi, L. J., & Kelvin. (2022). Effectiveness of Helichrysum italicum Essential Oil on Wound Healing. 10(2), 681–697.
Yahya, Y. F., Vani, O., Putra, D. E. W., Sovianti, C. S., Trislinawati, D., Marina, T., & Riviati, N. (2020). The Efficacy and Safety of Plant Oil Mixtures in the Treatment of Xerosis with Pruritus in Elderly People: Randomized double blind Controlled Trial. Bioscientia Medicina : Journal of Biomedicine and Translational Research, 5(3), 255–262. https://doi.org/10.32539/bsm.v5i3.206