Photoprotective lip formulation optimization methods: A systematic review
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.35335/midwifery.v14i2.2363Keywords:
DoE, Lip Formulation, Optimization, Photoprotective, RSMAbstract
Photoprotective lip preparations such as balms and tints containing natural ingredients are increasingly being developed as an alternative protection against ultraviolet radiation. The complexity of the formulation composition requires an appropriate optimization method to produce products with optimal effectiveness and stability. This review aims to analyze and compare optimization of various methods used in photoprotective lip preparations, evaluating their advantages and limitations in determining optimum conditions. This study uses a systematic review approach by searching scientific articles from databases like Google Scholar and other relevant sources within a specific time frame of years. The extracted data includes active ingredient type, optimization method, formulation variables, trial numbers, and response parameters like Sun Protection Factor (SPF), pH, and physical properties. Analysis results show that optimization methods based on experimental design, such as Response Surface Methodology (RSM), provide superior and robust capabilities in evaluating variable interactions and modeling nonlinear relationships to determine optimum conditions simultaneously. In contrast, conventional methods like one factor at a time (OFAT) combined with ANOVA still dominate but have limitations in evaluating variable interactions and generating predictive models. Most studies report that material composition variations, particularly wax bases and active ingredients, significantly influence the formulation's SPF value and physical characteristics. Experimental design-based optimization methods, particularly RSM, are strongly recommended for developing photoprotective lip formulations because they provide more efficient, accurate, and predictive results. However, their practical application is still limited. Therefore, further research is greatly needed to increase the widespread adoption of this advanced method in developing future natural product-based innovative pharmaceutical preparations.
Downloads
References
Apurva Vinodkumar, J., Kirti Chandrahar, G., & Prajakta Pradip, D. (2019). FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF ORGANIC LIP BALM. Indo American Journal of Pharmaceutical Research. www.iajpr.comwww.iajpr.com
Asari, Y. D., Gothicardo, D., Wibisono, E. S., Hartati, I., & Paramita, V. (2025). Optimization of Natural Lip Tint Formulation Using Red Beet (Beta vulgaris L.) and Waru Leaves (Hibiscus tiliaceus L.) Extracts with Enhanced Sun Protection Factor. Journal of Vocational Studies on Applied Research, 7(1), 21–29. https://doi.org/10.14710/jvsar.v7i1.28440
Clark, P. D., Awatefe, K. J., & Umudi, E. Q. (2026). Multi-Objective Optimization of a Lip Gloss Formulation Using a D-Optimal Mixture Design and FTIR Analysis. Journal of Chemical Society of Nigeria, 51(1), 001–020. https://doi.org/10.4314/jcsn.v51i1.1
Dewi, N. M., & Senda, K. R. (2025). Formulation of Lip Balm from Nanoparticles of Beetroot Extract (Beta vulgaris L) and Testing of Sunscreen Activity. https://journal.unnes.ac.id/journals/JSTRP/index
Endriyatno, N. C., Walid, M., Nurani, K., & Aifa, A. L. (2024a). Formulasi dan Penentuan Nilai SPF Lip Balm Ekstrak Kulit Buah Delima Hitam (Punica granatum L.) dengan Variasi Konsentrasi Basis Beeswax dan Carnauba Wax. Jurnal Mandala Pharmacon Indonesia, 10(1), 290–301. https://doi.org/10.35311/jmpi.v10i1.516
Endriyatno, N. C., Walid, M., Nurani, K., & Aifa, A. L. (2024b). Formulasi dan Penentuan Nilai SPF Lip Balm Ekstrak Kulit Buah Delima Hitam (Punica granatum L.) dengan Variasi Konsentrasi Basis Beeswax dan Carnauba Wax. Jurnal Mandala Pharmacon Indonesia, 10(1), 290–301. https://doi.org/10.35311/jmpi.v10i1.516
Fatmawati, F., Santoso, R., Azhar, D. P., Desvita, N. A., & Fauziah, R. (2020). UJI PENGHAMBATAN TIROSINASE MASKER GEL PEEL OFF YANG MENGANDUNG RUMPUT LAUT (Euchema cotonii) DAN WHEY KEFIR TYROSINASE INHIBITION TEST OF MASK GEL PEEL OFF FROM SEAWEED (Euchema cotonii) AND WHEY KEFIR. In Indonesia Natural Research Pharmaceutical Journal (Vol. 5, Number 1).
Fatmawati, F., Sukamto, & Santoso, R. (2022). Pegagan Extract Anti-inflammatory Gel Formulation. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Research and Applications, 7, 398. https://doi.org/10.35629/7781-0704398403
Hidayah, R., Nurrosyidah, H., Studi, P., Tradisional, P., Kesehatan, D., Vokasi, F., & Airlangga, U. (2026). Natural Lipstick Formulation Based on Monascus Purpureus Extract: Variation of Beeswax-Candelilla Wax and Evaluation of Antioxidant Activity. In International Journal Of Health, Engineering And Technology (Vol. 4, Number 5). https://ijhet.com/index.php/ijhess/
Hilmia Lukman, Shofia, V., & Latifah, A. (2025). SPF Determination of Carrot Extract-Based Sunscreen Lip Balm Using UV-Vis Spectrophotometry Method. Journal of Pharmacy and Science, 8(2), 279–286. http://jurnal.univrab.ac.id/index.php/jops
Iskandar, B., Azkiyah, R. T., Suhery, W. N., & Hendra, R. (2025). Formulasi Lip Tint Alami Ekstrak Stroberi: Peran Tween 80 dan Propilen Glikol Dalam Optimasi Stabilitas dan Aktivitas Antioksidan dengan Menggunakan Design Expert Software. Jurnal Pharmascience, 12(2), 558. https://doi.org/10.20527/jps.v12i2.23810
Jannah, M., Dalimunthe, I., Lubis, M. S., & Rani, Z. (2020). Production of lip balm with nano extract of beetroot (Beta vulgaris L.) and rosella flower (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.)as a natural moisturizer. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Sciences. https://doi.org/10.36490/journal-jps.com
Kresnawati, Y., Puspitasari, D. F., & Sundoro, A. K. (2024). Formulasi dan Aktivtas Tabir Surya LipBalm EkstrakDaun Pegagan (Centella Asiatica (L.) Urban).
Łusiak, P., Kęska, P., Mazur, J., Wójcik, M., & Sobczak, P. (2025). The Quality of Lip Balm Produced with Grape Pomace Addition. Sustainability (Switzerland), 17(13). https://doi.org/10.3390/su17136146
More, E., Sui, C. Y., & Rame, M. M. T. (2025). Activity And Stability Test of Lip Balm Preparation Formulation from Ethanol Extract of Kersen Leaves (Muntingia calabura L.) As Sunscreen. Berkala Ilmiah Kimia Farmasi, 12(1), 14–21. https://doi.org/10.20473/bikfar.v12i1.65942
Muslim, M. Q., & Fitriani, N. (n.d.). Formulation Study: Effect of Carnauba and Paraffin wax Concentration on Lipstick’s Physical Properties.
Nahda, N., & Amelia, A. (2025). Pengaruh SPF terhadap Stabilitas dan Efektivitas Lip Balm Alami dari BEESWAX dan Minyak Kelapa. OBAT: Jurnal Riset Ilmu Farmasi Dan Kesehatan. https://doi.org/10.61132/obat.v3i5
Nareswari, T. L., Syafitri, E., & Nurjannah, O. (2022). Sunscreen lip balm stick formulation containing a combination of virgin coconut oil and crude palm oil. Pharmacy Reports, 2(2), 48. https://doi.org/10.51511/pr.48
Nugrahaeni Ayuningtyas, Niken Luthfiyanti, & Bangkit Riska Permata. (2025). Uji Aktivitas Antioksidan dan Penentuan Nilai Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Sediaan Lip Balm Ekstrak Kayu Secang (Caesalpinia Sappan L.). JURNAL RISET RUMPUN ILMU KESEHATAN, 4(3), 448–462. https://doi.org/10.55606/jurrikes.v4i3.6755
Rahmawati, S., Fatmawati, A., Gunawan, A., Alma, U., & Yogyakarta, A. (2025). Formulasi dan Uji SPF Sediaan Lip cream Kombinasi Ekstrak Bunga Telang dan Minyak Lemon Formulation and SPF Evaluation of Lip cream Preparation Combining Butterfly Pea Extract and Lemon Oil. In Jurnal Farmasi Klinik dan Sains (Vol. 2025, Number 1).
Ramayani, S. L. (2024). Evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Test for Butterfly Pea Flower (Clitoria ternatea L.) Extract Lip Tint Preparations. Media Farmasi Indonesia, 19(2), 91–97. https://doi.org/10.53359/mfi.v19i2.231
Risnayanti, N. N., Budi, S., & Audina, M. (n.d.). FORMULASI DAN EVALUASI SEDIAAN LIP BALM EKSTRAK BUAH SEMANGKA (Citrullus lanatus) SEBAGAI SUN PROTECTION. In Sains Medisina (Vol. 1, Number 2).
Risnayanti, N. N., Budi, S., & Audina, M. (2022). FORMULASI DAN EVALUASI SEDIAAN LIP BALM EKSTRAK BUAH SEMANGKA (Citrullus lanatus) SEBAGAI SUN PROTECTION. In Sains Medisina (Vol. 1, Number 2).
Ristia Rahman, I., Kurnianto, E., Kartika Sari, D., Puspita Akademi Farmasi Yarsi Pontianak Jl Panglima Aim No, W., Bugis, D., Pontianak Tim, K., Pontianak, K., & Barat, K. (n.d.). Jurnal Ilmiah Farmako Bahari Tampoi Fruit Peel Extract Lip balm: Formulation, SPF, and Irritation Test ARTICLE HISTORY. Retrieved www.journal.uniga.ac.id
Ristia Rahman, I., Kurnianto, E., Kartika Sari, D., & Puspita, W. (2025). Jurnal Ilmiah Farmako Bahari Tampoi Fruit Peel Extract Lip balm: Formulation, SPF, and Irritation Test ARTICLE HISTORY. Jurnal Ilmiah Farmako Bahari. www.journal.uniga.ac.id
Safitri, N. Y. R., Dalimunthe, G. I., & Lubis, M. S. (2020). Journal of Pharmaceutical and Sciences Evaluation of Physical Quality, Moisture Test, and Potential Activity of Lip Balm Sunscreen from Ethanol Extract of Red Shoot Leaves (Syzygium myrtifolium Walp.). JPS, 2025(4), 2262–2275. https://doi.org/10.36490/journal-jps.com
Salsabila, N. S., Farmawati, A., Nuryanti Sundari Desi, Emelda, Puspitasari, A., & Amalia, L. (2025). Formulation and SPF Evaluation of a Lip Oil Serum Combining Ethanol Extract of Butterfly Pea Flower and Lavender Oil. Media Farmasi Indonesia, 20(2), 165–175. https://doi.org/10.53359/mfi.v20i2.341
Sukamdi, D. P., Nurjanah, A., Harimurti, S., Krisridwany, A., Amid, A., & Haresmita, P. P. (2025). FORMULATION AND SPF VALUE DETERMINATION OF LIP BALM WITH PINEAPPLE PEEL (Ananas comusus (L.) Merr.) AND CARROT PEEL (Daucus carota L.) EXTRACTS FORMULASI DAN PENENTUAN NILAI SPF LIP BALM KOMBINASI EKSTRAK KULIT NANAS (Ananas comusus (L.) Merr.) DAN KULIT WORTEL (Daucus carota L.). In JFL Jurnal Farmasi Lampung (Vol. 14, Number 2).
Tamura, E., Ishikawa, J., Yasuda, Y., & Yamamoto, T. (2021). The efficacy of synthetic pseudo-ceramide for dry and rough lips. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 43(2), 158–164. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12677
Türkdoğan, A., Alloush, T., & Demiralp, B. (2026). Experimental Design in Pharmaceutical Formulation Development: Achievements, Limitations and the Transition Toward Intelligent Optimization. Scientia Pharmaceutica, 94(2), 38. https://doi.org/10.3390/scipharm94020038
Vatsal Modi, D., Vipul Kumar Shah, D., & Patel, J. (2025). Formulation and Evaluation of Dragon Fruit Lipbalm. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Research and Applications, 10, 1173. https://doi.org/10.35629/4494-100611731180
Wahid Suleman, A., Wahyuningsih, S., & Indah Pratiwi, R. (2022). FORMULASI DAN EVALUASI STABILITAS SEDIAAN LIP BALM EKSTRAK KULIT BUAH NAGA MERAH (Hylocereus polyrhizus) DENGAN PENAMBAHAN MINYAK ZAITUN SEBAGAI EMOLIEN SERTA PENENTUAN NILAI SPF (Sun Protection Factor) FORMULATION AND EVALUATION STABILITY OF LIP BALM PREPARATION FROM RED DRAGON FRUIT SKIN EXTRACT (Hylocereus polyrhizus) WITH THE ADDITION OF OLIVE OIL AS AN EMOLLIENT AND DETERMINATION OF SPF (Sun Protection Factor) VALUE. In Medical Sains : Jurnal Ilmiah Kefarmasian (Vol. 7, Number 4).
Warapsari, N. A. W., Hasriyani, & Sukoharjanti, B. T. (2025). Journal of Innovative and Creativity Pengaruh Basis Campuran Beeswax Dan Carnauba Wax Terhadap Sifat Fisik Dan Kadar SPF Pada Formulasi Sediaan Lip Balm Ekstrak Buah Murbei (Morus Alba L.). In 25522| Journal of Innovative and Creativity (Vol. 5, Number 3).
Winarti, L., Novitasari, A. R., Dedy Irawan, E., & Eryani, M. C. (2024). Pengembangan Lip Cream Tabir Surya Dengan Variasi Konsentrasi Minyak Biji Pare (Momordica charantia) dan Titanium Dioksida. Indonesian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Clinical Research (IJPSCR, 2(Desember), 43–58.
Wisudyaningsih, B., Barikah, K. Z. aimah, & Kamelia, I. N. (2025). Effect of Quercetin and Zinc Oxide Concentrations on pH and In Vitro Activity of Sunscreen Lipstick. Borneo Journal of Pharmacy, 8(2), 167–175. https://doi.org/10.33084/bjop.v8i2.6797
Zahrotul Mungizah, A., Sania Rosanti, A., Dwiningrum, R., & Pratiwi, M. (2025a). Optimization of Lip Cream Formula with Teak Leaf Extract (Tectona grandis L.f.) and Carnauba Wax Base Using the Simplex Lattice Design Method Optimasi Formula Lip Cream Ekstrak Daun Jati (Tectona grandis L.f.) dan Basis Carnauba Wax Menggunakan Metode Simplex Lattice Design (Vol. 04, Number 3). https://jurnal.undhirabali.ac.id/index.php/jakasakti/index
Zahrotul Mungizah, A., Sania Rosanti, A., Dwiningrum, R., & Pratiwi, M. (2025b). Optimization of Lip Cream Formula with Teak Leaf Extract (Tectona grandis L.f.) and Carnauba Wax Base Using the Simplex Lattice Design Method Optimasi Formula Lip Cream Ekstrak Daun Jati (Tectona grandis L.f.) dan Basis Carnauba Wax Menggunakan Metode Simplex Lattice Design (Vol. 04, Number 3). https://jurnal.undhirabali.ac.id/index.php/jakasakti/index
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2026 Imelda Matruty, Dzakiyya Nur Dhiya, Garnadi Jafar, Fenti Fatmawati
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
